Hadley, a neighboring town near Amherst, Massachusetts, where I live, is famous for its asparagus. In late spring, around mid-May, when the crops finally arrive, everyone rushes to buy a bunch. Farmers sell bundles of the handsome spears at outdoor markets and roadside stands, and not to be outdone, our groceries all display the verdant stalks with signs noting that they are LOCAL!
Over the years, I’ve created more than one dish inspired by this harvest. Smooth, silky asparagus bisque topped with crème fraîche and crab, golden puff pastry tarts filled with sliced asparagus and shiitakes, and risotto with asparagus, prosciutto, and Parmesan, were all created during “our asparagus season.” My latest invention, creamy asparagus flans scented with chives and tarragon, are ideal as the centerpiece for a delicious, yet easy warm weather brunch.Blanched asparagus spears are pureed in a food processor along with a savory custard of eggs, crème fraiche, and Gruyère. Fresh spring herbs round out the flavorings. The flan mixture is ladled into ramekins, then placed in a water bath, and put in the oven. When set, the celadon-hued flans are unmolded and arranged on plates garnished simply but strikingly with a few asparagus tips and whole chives.
The flans can be baked and unmolded a day ahead so that they only need reheating at serving time. Offer them with smoked salmon toasts (toasted bread slices topped with smoked salmon, a generous grating of black pepper, a sprinkle of capers, and a squeeze or two of lemon). Add a salad of thinly sliced radishes and cucumbers, paired with chopped red onions in a tarragon vinaigrette, and your spring brunch menu is complete!
